Thus, an epic adventure of trains, ferry and one flight home was born. We did as we have done for the past few years: I planned the route and the transport, Zoe provided a selection of hotels that I then booked for us (she is epic at picking good hotels). I thought I'd write up what we did so this post is massive but you don't have to read it, you know, free will is a thing.
Stage 1: Train London-Milan, three nights in Milan
We took the 9.30 Eurostar to Paris, which gave us around a 2 hour layover to get across the city to Gare de Lyons: ample time for a Parisian lunch and lounge in the sunshine. From there, we took a Frecciarossa train to Milan, which took around 7 hours. The line we took only reopened this past spring, having been closed for a number of years thanks to rock fall. I did think, when we were doing it, that we could sensibly have done this as an overnight train, but the views were so stunning. We went through Oulx, which has prompted me to consider ski-training it to Sauze d'Oulx (my favourite ski resort) at some point for a holiday. The train was very busy but comfortable enough.
We stayed at the fancy Chateu Montfort, next to a tram stop and a metro stop, roughly 20 minutes' very slow ambling from the city centre. Fantastic spa, I loved it, and super-helpful staff. Spendy, but we usually do spendy for the first few days of the trip, when we most need to rest. We went to the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Duomo and, of course, to the see the Last Supper.
Stage 2: Train Milan-Bari, four nights in Bari
Another Frecciarossa and this time with spectacular views of the Adriatic coastline for most of the journey. The aircon in our carriage sadly broke so we got (eventually) moved into business class: next time, I think I would book the business seats from the start as they were not that much dearer. The train was also nearly an hour late arriving, which is odd for Italy. I had multiple emails in Italian explaining how I could claim some of the fee back. Maybe I will get round to it.
We stayed in an apartment in the old town. People were generally a bit nose-wrinkly about us staying in Bari because it's a big port city so, I guess, a bit like staying in Southampton - ie, why there when there are lots of gorgeous places nearby? But it suited us. Great transport links, not masses to see so you didn't feel bound to be constantly out wandering, and really nice breezy climate. We did a couple of day trips, one to Polignano a Mare by train and one organised coach tour to Alberobello and Matera - this on that last day, and they were able to stow our luggage on the coach for the whole day, which was very handy.
If I had to do it again I might choose Brindisi instead. It's a bit further south, so a bit easier to reach the prettiest coastline and also Lecce, which I would have liked to have revisited.
Stage 3: Ferry to Albania, one night in Durres, five nights in Tirana
We took an overnight Adria ferry from Bari to Durres in Albania. This was cheap enough that we could afford a two-berth cabin with a window to the outside and saved us a night's hotel fee. Bari port was a little confusing, not many signs or people to ask for info and very few announcements; we walked in at the old town end, by passport control, where a security guard told us we needed to take the shuttle bus to check in and then shuttle back. This we did. I wanted to note that Google Maps told us we couldn't enter the port at the old town end unless we did so by bus - instead, it indicated that we needed to walk for over an hour to get in at the check-in end. This isn't correct, don't panic.
We queued at passport control for well over an hour with no sign of any staff and then eventually a man came and announced something, so half the people started queuing elsewhere. Unfortunately, he announced in Italian and very quietly so we couldn't hear him anyway (strong shades of Laura Ramoso's Chiara character here). For a while we haplessly stood around. Then Zoe went to ask someone and it turned out it was the queue for our ferry, while everyone else was standing in a queue for another ferry to Durres leaving an hour later. Clear as mud. When we got through passport control (shout out to the Port of Bari passport control people for being the most sullen I have come across, possibly ever - please do consider getting other jobs as this one clearly makes you miserable) we were left with no indication of where our ferry was, and nobody to ask. Someone else in our position had to go back to ask the grumpy passport people.
I mention this only because obviously I did extensive Googling while waiting in the queue and couldn't find much, if any, information about going out through the Port of Bari as a foot passenger. If this is you: it will be fine. Ask lots of questions. I'd also say that, in common with many large passenger ferries, they don't really have a process for managing foot passengers. There was very little information, even on the boat, about where to go. So, you have to hold your nerve. Perhaps I should have booked direct with Adria instead of using Direct Ferries, they might have sent through more information.
After all that palaver, the ferry ride was mercifully delightful. Very comfortable cabin, the crossing was extremely smooth, the shower was a bit dribbly but very welcome. We slept soundly all the way until it was almost time to get off and breakfast was widely served, though we did not partake. It was difficult, again, to get off the ferry - various staff kept telling us to wait to be called, as foot passengers, but eventually it became obvious that nobody was going to call so we walked off while they were still unloading the lorries.
Durres port had no bureau de change, that we could find, and a very punitive ATM, which we had to use because we needed lek to pay for our hotel. It charged me around £18 of fees to withdraw £250. Still recovering. We planned a slow walk to our hotel, in stages, as we were very early to check in and it was about an hour and 10 minutes' walk, but they said this wasn't wise an booked us a taxi. The taxi driver was not prepared for the last 2km to be gravel road though I was then quite relieved we hadn't tried to walk it.
We spent one night in Durres at the Kallmi Eco Rooms. One night was not enough. We were stupid and should have booked two nights. Once again, people were a bit nose-wrinkly about Durres as a holiday destination; this was a little north of the port but it also seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. The two-room hotel was attached to a beach club and, as Zoe and I had booked both rooms, we essentially had the beach and surroundings to ourselves when everybody went home for the day, and before they arrived in the morning. I had a very peaceful and private swim the next morning. The hotel let us lounge in the private garden until our rooms were ready and really pulled out all the stops to be helpful, booking us a taxi for the next day and even providing a cat. We had the freshest fish for dinner and a sumptuous breakfast.
It was paradise.
Anyway, then off to Tirana, the taxi was about 45 euros which we felt was very reasonable, particularly as we had no interest in figuring out the buses. This is what back-packing looks like when you're both in well-paid jobs and unwilling to put up with any unnecessary discomfort (aka, middle aged).
We stayed in an apartment in Tirana close to Skanderberg Square. It was a lovely studio, with a bed on a mezzanine platform that unfortunately was a little bit too protected from the aircon. The apartment building next door to us was also being torn down and work on this went on until at least midnight every night. The first night was the worst as the active destruction meant our whole building was shaking on the regular; the other nights, they were just trucking away the rubble, so it was just noisy. And dusty, so dusty. But the place was very good value and they weren't to know this would be going on.
We did a couple of day trips out of Tirana: to Berat, and to the Albanian Alps ('the Accursed Mountains') with a hike to the Blue Eye for swimming. I was very excited about this one as I read a book about this area when I had just finished uni and was keenly anticipating seeing a reconciliation tower. Sadly the guide did not take us there. Nor did he guide the whole party to the Blue Eye - just the half that were at the front. We hung out and swam in the river for an hour before he reappeared, much too late to take us to the end destination. Very disappointing. I keep telling myself that I would have been very happy with my hike and swim had I not known that I missed out on swimming through a waterfall, but ... sad face. Maybe I will go back again some time.
We also did a little explore of Tirana: BunkArt2, a secret police museum housed in a former nuclear bunker; a tasting dinner at Cerem Ismet Shehu in the castle and more traditional food at Oda; an explore of Skanderberg square. Lazy lunches at Luara bakery. It was a very pleasant city to walk around.
So that was Il Grande Tour of 2025, with only one flight involved and no car rental. I can recommend all of it. If I was changing anything, I'd consider Brindisi instead of Bari and spend longer at the beach in Albania than in the city. I think I could also have done a bit more research into things to do, particularly in Tirana, as I wonder if we missed out on anything that was must-see. But then, nobody wants to do too much on holiday. Next year I am quite keen to just go to one place, for a change. Unpacking would be nice.
For logistics - all train tickets booked on the Trainline (even the ones in Puglia, it was easier than figuring out the machines); all accom booked on Booking.com; ferry booked on Direct Ferries; most of the tours booked on Viator which meant the Berat one was half price as they offer rewards. The internet, eh? Makes things so easy.
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